Today was our last day with Gazi, our over-enthused but amusing tour guide. We went to the Hagia Sophia and the Sultanahmet Mosque Cisterns.
As we were taking off our shoes to enter the mosque, my friend Alaina commented that she hoped her Hebrew school teachers didn't find out, so I was happy to be able to inform both her and Gazi that Jewish law does not prohibit entering a mosque because there is nothing that could be considered idol worship, as some other religious institutions have. Thank you, Bergen County High School of Jewish Studies!
One thing that is fascinating about the mosque is that it was originally a church. In its days as a church, it was filled with beautiful paintings of Jesus Christ and other important Biblical figures. When the Muslims took it over, they wanted to respect the fact that the paintings had religious importance, even if not to them. They were too religious to be destroyed. Instead, some were covered up, which seems to me to be the same thing, but I suppose in a way, maybe it is a little more respectful. But not all of them were hidden in this way. There are still many that are faded, but still visible.
On the lower level, there is what is known as the "crying pillar." It has a hole in it surrounded by a large, bronze border. Gazi told us that it's a very old tradition for visitors to stick a finger in and turn it all the way around. Whatever wish they make is supposed to be granted. Everyone wanted to do it, because of course, you never know, and I think we were almost late for our next event because so many people in our group got on the line to do it. Hagia Sophia, I'll be waiting for my wish, just so you know.
After the mosque, we went down to the cisterns. It was a really calm walk through the dark with a few lights scattered throughout the water. It's another one of many things that I'm just going to have to remember because my camera couldn't capture it.
They gave us 20 YTL for lunch and sent us off with half an hour to grab lunch before our boat tour on the Bosphorous River, which separates the Asian half and the European half of Turkey, which is not an equal divide, as most of Turkey is in Asia. But the normal tours take four hours and since Maja knew we would like some free time, she arranged for it to only take an hour and a half. It was a beautiful day out, so in addition to the amazing scenery, it was pretty cool to look out and know that we were seeing Asia.
There's another Turkish tradition of reading someone's fortune based upon the coffee grinds left from his or her Turkish coffee. Maja told us she no longer likes to do it because she once told a woman there would be a pain in her chest and she later died of breast cancer, but she still showed us a few pictures in the coffee grinds and described what they meant. It's a very interesting process. It often is passed down in families as women teach it to their daughters and graddaughters, etc.
After that, we had the option to go to Istanbul Modern, Istanbul's art museum. Only Emilio, Alaina, Hilary, Kathryn and I went along with Peter. Hilary would've preferred to go to the Grand Bazaar, so she complained a little bit, but everyone else enjoyed it. However, I still don't have an appreciation for DVD art. Or at least, not what Istanbul Modern had to offer.
After that, we went to the Grand Bazaar to do a little shopping. We didn't have a lot of time, but mostly managed to find some things that we were looking for. Emilio, Hilary and I each bought several of those blue eyes that protect you from evil spirits. I jumped on the bandwagon after they bought them, because they had already bargained the man down. I needed to buy a magnet for Mrs. Atlas, so I got that, too, but the man forgot to charge me for it and I paid the same as Emilio and Hilary. They'll be fun to give to people since it's obviously way too difficult for me to get a lot of gifts to bring home for people.
After that, we went to find dinner and the Turkish baths. We found a restaurant and then realized we were right by the Turkish baths, so we scrapped our original plan of going back to the hotel to store all the things we bought.
Dinner was great, and then the baths were amazing. I've never gone to do something like that before. It's a little awkward being lathered and massaged by an old Turkish woman with no shirt and sagging breasts, but it was really relaxing. Hilary, Kathryn and I got the basic massage and I got a facial as well. Emilio decided that if he was going to do it, he was going to do it right and splurged on the most intense one, which included an oil massage and whatever else it had.
I don't think I've ever felt more refreshed in my life. After that, we ended the night splitting some desserts. Hilary and I originally chose not to partake, but then Emilio and Kathryn had such a reaction to the chocolate baklava that I had to try it. It was probably the best thing I've ever eaten and has shamed every dessert I've had since.
All in all, it was an amazing night. I was so relaxed that I didn't have the energy to finish my journal that night and had to do it the next day.
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